My daughter Noe got me interested in succulents in early 2016 and ever since we've been on a quest!!! Naturally with so many new plants around, we needed pots to put all of them into. The typical pots you can buy from the big box stores just don't have character that suits these incredibly interesting plants. So we've both been making our own pottery. And now we're branching out into other plants - Aeroids, Orchids and Citrus!!! Check out what our green thumbs have been doing!!!
Friday, March 31, 2017
Brighamia insignia Germination Instructions
I found this on a University of Hawaii webpage:
Propagation by Seeds
Cultivated plants may begin to flower as early as their first year, but usually not for two or three years. Hand pollination should increase seed production since the native pollinator is presumed to be extinct. To hand pollinate Brighamia, use a small paint brush to transfer the pollen. When the flowers are a couple of days old, the pollen will begin being shed. Use the paint brush to pick up pollen that has fallen onto the flower tube and apply the pollen to the stigma of another flower. The stigma is ready to receive the pollen when it appears shiny and sticky. According to Koob, if pollination is successful, the base of the flower will start to swell within a couple of days.
The fruit of Brighamia insignis is a green capsule about 1/2 inch long which ripens six to eight weeks after pollination. When mature, the capsule splits open releasing many small, smooth seeds. Hannon states that the capsules may still be green when the open or they may have turned pale yellow or light cream in color. Some seeds may remain stuck to the sides of the capsule. The capsules can be harvested just as they start to crack open. Place the capsules in a paper bag or envelope until the seeds fall out of the open capsule.
Most sources state that Brighamia seeds require light to germinate and to sprinkle the seeds on the surface of moist, fine textured medium that drains well such as fine perlite or commercial peat/perlite potting mix. Hannon suggests a light covering of fine potting medium. Use of a mist system is suggested by NTBG. Seeds should be kept in partial shade. Koob indicates that the seeds will begin germinating in a couple of weeks and that most seeds will sprout at the same time. Christensen writes that the first seed germinated in 11 days and germination continued for 2 months. His final germination rate was 66%. Hannon reports sporadic germination beginning in two weeks. NTBG (Ragone 1993) reports 44% germination rate after 3 months for seeds stored for 5 months at 80 degrees F and 25% relative humidity.
Seed can be sown fresh or can be stored. Koob states that they can be kept in a refrigerator for up to 2 or 3 years. Hannon, however, writes that viability declines rapidly after 10 to 12 months. NTBG (Ragone 1993) reports that the seeds were no longer viable after storage at ambient temperature (80 degrees F) and relative humidity (25%) for 17 months. (Christensen 1979; Hannon 2002; Koob 2000; NTBG 1992; Ragone 1993; Wagner 1999)
Here are the bases of the flowers I pollinated a couple of weeks back (at least I think they are pollinated).
And here are some bases that have not been pollinated.
I'll keep posting updates as this process moves forward. 4/5/17 Update - some of the bases of the last crop of flowers are splitting. The article describes this - so I'm going to try and bag the pods so I can capture the seeds.
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